The Cistercians garments were cheap and
rough, their wardrobe frugal. They adhered strictly to chapter 55
of the Rule of
St Benedict, and each monk had two tunics and two cowls,
a scapular for work,
shoes and stockings. The extra tunic allowed for washing and night-time
wear, as the Cistercian monk slept in his habit. Early legislation
forbade fur and undergarments of fine linen, and stipulated that
shoes should be made of cowhide, not Cordoba leather. There were
initially no concessions to climate, but by the mid-twelfth century
it was agreed that monks might wear their entire wardrobe in winter.
For
their name arose from the fact that, as the angels might be,
they were clothed in undyed wool, spun and woven from the pure
fleece of sheep. So named and garbed and gathered together like
flocks of seagulls they shine as they walk with the whiteness
of snow
[Walter Daniel, Vita
Aelredi, p 5.]
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Contemporaries noted the severity of these regulations
but were primarily struck by their rejection of the traditional
black habit. The Cistercians wore undyed wool to proclaim their
poverty, for dyes were expensive and smacked of luxury. Their
habits
were generally a greyish-white, and sometimes of a brownish hue,
but they were popularly called the White Monks. They were thus
distinguished
and defined by the colour of their habit. This proclaimed their
difference; to some it was novel and attractive, to others a declaration
of superiority and implicit criticism of the Benedictines.(1)
The Cistercians were also characterised
and caricatured by their refusal to wear trousers, which
were worn by Western monks on account of modesty and the colder
climate.
...the
wind blew his habit right over his neck so that the poor man
was candidly exposed to the unwilling eyes of the lord king
.....
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The White Monks, rejecting contemporary practice,
insisted upon a literal observance of the Rule of St Benedict,
and trousers were only permitted when travelling for protection
against mud and the cold. Their bare-bottomed piety
attracted much comment and considerable ridicule.
Like all monks and clerics the
Cistercians were tonsured (see picture above), i.e. the crown
of the head was
shaved, leaving a band of hair below the ears, to symbolise the
Crown of Thorns. This rite of passage was performed after the novice
had made his profession in the chapter-house, and before he took
his vows in the church. Subsequent shaving occurred in the cloister
about nine times a year.(2)
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